Nestled by the west bank of the Piscataqua, a river integral to the maritime history of New England, The Dunaway is serving Contemporary American Cuisine in the heart of a national historic treasure. With the abundance of commercial fishing boats riding the tides, local seafood is prime here, as is excellent regionally sourced land-based fare.  In the spirit of traditional cooking, the cuisine draws heavily from fresh, local produce, including historic and rare herbs, fruits and vegetables grown at Strawbery Banke's own working kitchen gardens.

From Water Country’s Grill Shack to the kitchens of NYC’s Aureole and Café Boulud and Chicago’s Trio, Evan Hennessey’s culinary instincts and talent  have brought him twice to The Dunaway Restaurant’s doors – first as the sous chef opening the restaurant in 2005, and now as the executive chef.  

A native of Dover, NH, Hennessey is a local success story.  It truly all began at Water Country’s Grill Shack, then it was on to Newicks of Dover as a line cook and to more restaurant and catering jobs in the region. Hennessey was driven by a passion for culinary arts and for knowledge, and graduated from the Atlantic Culinary Academy.  While a culinary student he worked at Portsmouth’s 43 Degrees North restaurant for an externship.  It was the best of all worlds; he had family ties here and the restaurant was new and exciting, breaking boundaries for the region’s culinary scene.  Following graduation, Hennessey was hired full-time as a sous chef at 43 Degrees North, and he never looked back.  In under a year he became executive chef of the popular restaurant and served creative contemporary American cuisine there for three years. 

During his time heading the kitchen, Hennessey knew he needed more training, so with the blessing of Gino Gullota, owner of 43 Degrees North, he went to NYC’s Aureole to work for free in the kitchen, learning everything he could under Chef Charlie Palmer.  “I did everything there” says Hennessey.  “From saucier to butcher to the hot line.  I saw first-hand how a really fast paced restaurant needed to be organized.  Chef Palmer is the fastest expediter I have ever seen; working in that kitchen at the same time as running it.  I knew that’s what I aspired to.”

At the same time he worked at Aureole, Hennessey did double duty at the famed Café Boulud.  Here he learned the classic French brigade system in a kitchen.  “It opened up a whole new world of professionalism for me” explains Hennessey.   “It was an amazing experience to be in NYC at both these restaurants, soaking it up every day. Amazing to work for Chef Daniel Boulud.”    

A year later Hennessey did it again, heading to Chicago to work under Chef Grant Achatz at Trio.  “I butchered goose, skate wing, and whole striped bass.  I worked right next to Grant Achatz, who shared his technique and knowledge.  I picked up his creative flavor profiles and ability to break down tastes – another inspiring culinary experience!”  Hennessey returned to 43 Degrees, earning rave reviews from consumers and critics alike. 

Next he met Jay McSharry, a local entrepreneur building a new restaurant, The Dunaway at Strawbery Banke, and walked through the construction site.  Hennessey fell in love with prospect of The Dunaway, and headed over as the opening sous chef.  “Before we could even get into the kitchen, there was painting to be done, window moldings to be constructed, shelving to be put up, prep tables to be built.  I was part of the opening team, and literally fell in love with this place when it was just post and beam.”  

Hennessey opened The Dunaway with executive chef Mary Dumont, who went on to Food & Wine Best New Chef honors and the restaurant earned national acclaim.  Hennessey left The Dunaway for a year, working at the 100 Club in Portsmouth, but the pull of The Dunaway called him back, first as sous chef and now as executive chef.

With new owners Ray Guerin and Peter Dizoglio, The Dunaway is headed in a direction of expanding its menu for lunch, dinner and the bar.  Hennessey is excited to create new menus for locals and visitors alike, bringing more of New England’s regional ingredients to the table. 

The Dunaway Restaurant at Strawbery Banke: The Menu
“Bringing together recognizable, approachable food in an extremely creative way” is Hennessey’s mission at The Dunaway.  A culinary treasure in the heart of a historic national landmark, The Dunaway is known for its farm-to-table approach and a reverence for local sourced ingredients.  “That’s going to continue – just more of it” according to Hennessey.  “I want our menu to be approachable, showcasing New England’s ingredients with great technique and presentation.”   

Look for Hennessey’s new Dunaway Chowder to become a classic with its velvety cream base infused with bacon, garlic, and herbs. Served tableside, it is an explosion of flavor in every bite.  And speaking of soup, Hennessey’s personal favorite is the Dunaway’s French Onion Soup.  “The key is properly caramelized onions, a robust stock, aromatic herbs.  And you need a really good gruyere cheese.  We serve it with our own home-made baguettes – nothing is better to warm you up in fall and winter.”  Other standouts on the menu include

The Dunaway Charcuterie
a selection of cured meats, cheeses and pickled vegetables with capers and whole grain mustard

Maine Lobster Salad
butter lettuce, double smoked bacon, tarragon and basic, roasted garlic aioli

Oven Roasted Half Chicken
chive gnocchi, Back River Farms Sungold tomatoes, roasted shallots, roasted garlic jus

Local Haddock
savoy cabbage, white beans and local clams, shaved black truffles, chive oil

Hennessey is having fun with the new Chef’s Food Bar just added to the Dunaway. It is four high tops with a granite slab looking directly into the kitchen.  “It’s a great opportunity for me to see and hear first–hand from our guests. These are becoming the most sought-after seats in the dining room – I love the interaction.”  

Hennessey has come home to The Dunaway, and Portsmouth couldn’t be more delighted!

 

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